Meyricke Serjeantson

June 9 to 12. Up the River Kwai

June 9. Bangkok to River Kwai

A sombre morning, which was accentuated by the 5.45 alarm call. We breakfasted at 6 and were collected in a small van at 6.30. This took us across town for half an hour and then pulled into a large car park, where it proceeded to perform slalom manoeuvres through a maze of stacked tyres. It would seem that this was just the driver's way of killing time as, no sooner had he finished, than a large coach, emblazoned with the name out our hotel, hove into view.

Thai service station

We climbed aboard, joining the dozen or so others who were already there. Nam, our enthusiastic guide, gave us a very useful introduction to all sorts of things and we sped out of Bangkok. After about half an hour we stopped at a large service station for loos and drinks. It provided both very stylishly and could have been mistaken for a service area in the UK or NZ.

After this we made good progress through a mixture of urban and rural areas until we reached Kanchanaburi at about 10. Parking immediately outside the war cemetery, we entered the Burma Railway museum. This was brilliantly researched from an obviously British perspective. Slightly starchy, rather than the more modern PC type of museum, it told the story very effectively, pulling no punches in a sombre and harrowing way. It would be interesting to know if Japanese coach parties were welcome there. What it made clear to me was the Thai role in the events, something of which I had been unaware.

Burma Railway Museum

The Thai Government, realising that they couldn't hope to resist, gained a sort of neutrality, thus preserving its citizens from the worst of the Japanese excesses but at the expense of everyone else.

Over the road is the immaculately tended war cemetery. Not a blade of grass was out of place, which made it rather clinical. It is said that there is a Buddhist run cemetery not far way which has a far more emotional feel to it. In spite of this, it was moving, the sheer number of the graves making an impact.

Kanchanaburi war cemetary

The crowds were large in the blazing sun and more than a few tears were shed. We were able to buy flowers to lay on the graves. Not knowing anyone who had died on the railway, I chose a grave with a familiar name and placed my flowers there.

Bridge on the River Kwai

A few more miles away was the famous Bridge on the River Kwai. The one in THE film was actually in Burma but this was the one about which the film was supposedly written. That the film was completely inaccurate in most respects isn't really relevant. It was much smaller than I had imagined and it was heaving with people. I started to cross but the fear of being pushed down one of the gaping holes and falling 20 feet into the river beneath made me turn back half way.

After another short coach journey, we drove into Tha Kilen station, which was to be the start of our train ride. Valerie and I had decided to upgrade to first class (leaving the others in 3rd), which was to cost us the significant sum of $6. Nam, the guide, queued at the ticket office and made all of the arrangements for us while we looked at the station.

	It had a splendid indicator board and a magnificent clock. In a nation which is overtly pro-royalist, this was a statement and a half. The decision to travel first class nearly misfired when the train pulled up with the first class carriage about 50 yards up the track from the platform. We had to run along the ballast by the side of the track and then had to be heaved aboard by the staff.

Silver service from the trolley
Once inside, however, we were treated like royalty. Cold water, towels, tea and biscuits arrived on a trolley staffed by two very smart waiters. The carriage was air conditioned - sort of - and we had padded seats. Nam, our guide, came & chatted to us at intervals, also keeping an eye on Angie & Cory who were much less comfortably housed in 3rd class.

We passed through fields of tapioca, bananas and sugar cane. The soil was very red & looked immensely fertile. The tapioca factory smelled disgusting. No one actually eats it. It is used for industrial and animal feed purposes.

Red fields ...	... full of tapioca

We crossed one of the old wooden trestle bridges, which carries the railway along the face of the cliff on the edge of the river. This involved slowing down to walking pace and following the cliff in a tight curve so that we were able to look along the whole length of the train.

	Across the old trestle
Across the old trestle
Sharply curved track

After about 45 minutes we arrived at Nam Tok, now the end of the line, and re-boarded the bus. This took us a few more miles up the road to our hotel.

The River Kwai Village Resort is perched on the steep banks of the river - the Kwai Yai. The Kwai Yai and the Kwai Noi merge at Kanchanaburi to form the Mekong. The famous bridge is on the other branch, the Kwai Noi.

The hotel is in the middle of nowhere. Nam Tok is the nearest village, about 10 minutes drive away. It is a maze of corridors, stairs and steep paths. Just staggering as far as the restaurant was quite an effort. The rooms have balconies overlooking the river, which also has rooms on floating barges, and there is a small waterfall running through the buildings.

	We climbed the hill at the rear, found the pig sties at the top - including some piglets running loose - and then wandered down again. It wasn't exactly exciting but the walk was probably good for us. The hotel has two swimming pools, one with a water slide. We had a swim at this one and I stayed on for a beer at the poolside bar. This was very much needed in the sticky heat.