June 10. River Kwai
After a very nice breakfast on the terrace, we staggered back down the steps again to the river bank, where we boarded a long-tailed boat. These seem to be the standard method of transport in Thailand (and also in Cambodia). They feature motors of varying sizes which are attached to a long pole at the end of the boat. This is the propeller shaft and the helmsman (or woman, steers the boat by heaving on the shaft to adjust the position of the propeller. They are all very noisy and some of the motors are huge, looking as if they were salvaged from a redundant jet fighter.
|
|
 |
Accompanying us on the trip were our guide for the day, the boatman and his young son and another couple, a large Dutchman and his Thai wife.
 |
 |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
We tootled upstream for about 20 minutes and then disembarked, climbed a steep bank and arrived at a small gift shop. There we photographed the pet monkey (photo didn’t work) and one of the numerous fluffy white dogs which lived there. We continued our way through an orchard, complete with fruit (probably limes) protected in small plastic bags.
 |
 |
|
Assorted fruit trees |
We then climbed a set of over 100 steps and reached the entrance to the Kaeng Lava Caves. These were excellent, a five chamber collection of stalagmites, stalactites, bats and other underground phenomena.
 |
 |
The guide led us round, being very concerned about my limp. I wasn't sure which limp concerned him most as the gout & arthritis in my left leg & foot were competing with the coral fragments in my right foot. He referred to me throughout as Papa. My camera performed quite well in these trying circumstances although I didn't dare use my flash in the bat cave for fear of causing a riot. I think we all managed to avoid hitting our heads on any of the lower parts although there were a few near misses. |
 |
 |
After retracing our steps, we returned to the boat and set sail up the river. For about an hour and a quarter we sped northwards, past ordinary houses, floating houses, a discontinued road bridge and numerous floating hotels.Left: Discontinued road bridge |
 |
 |
|
|
One of these was being re-roofed as we passed and, by the time we returned a couple of hours later, it had been completed. For much of the journey we were surrounded by steep cliffs with thick vegetation but there were also sandbanks and a few more open areas. The almost complete absence of wildlife can probably be attributed to the horrific noise of the engine.
 |
 |
|
|
We moored alongside a floating restaurant and shop with an interesting collection of stuff. We were able to use the toilets and also to buy water in preparation for what we assumed would be a long walk.
We were near to a small waterfall - the Sai Yok falls. These were far from spectacular, there being many better ones in New Zealand. In order to view these from another angle, we were marched over a very rickety suspension bridge. I managed to drag myself over, assuming that we were going somewhere interesting, only to discover that we then had to march back over it again. I and my quivering nerves were not amused.
 |
 |
|
|
We climbed another short path, viewed the supposed swimming hole and all changed our minds very rapidly. We had all had visions of crystal clear pools at the foot of a waterfall, not a muddy creek in the middle of a forest.
The guide was a bit confused by this so took us to look at the local market - largely closed because it was a Sunday - and the National Park Information Centre, which featured some of the stranger local flora and fauna. Honour satisfied, he lead us back down the hill to the floating café, where he distributed our packed lunches. These were a disappointment. 2 boiled eggs, 2 green skinned mandarins (lovely), a piece of fried chicken, a ham sandwich and a piece of cake. I ignored the last three for various reasons.
 |
It was upsetting to discover that the guide and the Thai lady had both ordered a proper lunch at the café. They were soon served up rice, tom yum and stir fried pork mince with basil and chilli. I managed to steal a taste of these and they were magnificent, the sort of food that they don't serve to foreigners in case it upsets them. Peter, the Dutchman, suggested a beer so we shared a large bottle of Chang, followed by another and then another and chatted for ages. |
He had retired to the Laotian border area, married his wife about three years before and they were trying to learn each other's languages with slow progress on both sides. Our guide had just graduated with a degree in English studies but freely admitted that his English wasn't very good. It was a very relaxing time in lovely surroundings.
 |
 |
|
|
The journey home, downstream, was quite a lot quicker that the outward one. We saw a few birds, an elephant in the extreme distance and, finally, a very peculiar shape, a herd of buffalo almost completely submerged in the river trying to keep cool.
 |
We returned home for a long rest, drinks by the river, dinner and an early night. |