Sep 25

Southport to Liverpool

I awoke to clear skies and sunshine, quite a change. After so much food yesterday, I contented myself with an orange and lots of pills for breakfast. I reorganised my bag, checked out and started my walk to the station. It was quiet and reasonably warm.

I passed the HSBC, a spectacular building. Fearing that if I produced my camera inside, I would be arrested, I took photos of the tiles in the porch and the front elevation. I’m not sure I can remember such a fine branch anywhere else in the UK.
Sunny morning in Southport	Wonderful tiles in the bank

I reached the station, found a train departing in two minutes – they run every fifteen – so boarded without stopping for photographs. There weren’t many people aboard when we left but the train filled up steadily and, by the time we reached Liverpool, 45 minutes later, the train was full. The journey wasn’t exactly exciting, passing through lots of fields before arriving in the built-up areas towards the city.

Liverpool Central Station is underground and part of a shopping mall, which has not yet been completed. I selected an exit almost at random and walked along crowded streets until I spotted a landmark on my map – Tesco. This pointed me in the right direction and I arrived in an area of converted warehouses. I located the building containing my apartment, which had been re-built rather than converted.

Commercial on one side ...	... domestic on the other

On the opposite side of the street was a small estate of red brick houses. I’m not sure if they were private or council. It was a strange juxtaposition.

I gave them my bag and they gave me a decent map. Very useful. I could check in after lunch.

The map led me past a mix of both restored and unrestored warehouses and down to the Royal Albert Docks.

Some buildings had not been restored	Royal Albert Dock
Coach parties everywhere	Along the waterfront
Locks by the mile	Even a London bus

This area is VERY touristy and there were coach tours heading in all directions, not to mention Beatles’ music coming from lots of buildings.

I took photos over the river, including the chain of locks which were very rusty, then retraced my steps into the docks in search of coffee.

The cafes all looked expensive but I had a good coffee and a healthy mix of avocado, spinach and halloumi on rye bread. That should keep me going for a few hours.

Along the waterfront is a branch of the Tate. Not surprisingly there were lots of statues. I was later told that Liverpool has more statues than any other city except Westminster. There was a loudly coloured one, an excellent one of Billy Fury and one of a family about to emigrate. I have seen many similar of families doing the opposite and arriving in the Antipodes. The latter two were of the highest quality.
A gift from the Mormon Church	Strange things at the Tate

I looked at “The Ferry Cross the Mersey” but decided to enter the Museum, instead. It is a huge and, in my opinion, ugly building. Seeing it juxtaposed to “The Three Graces”, the exceptionally elegant buildings which line the waterfront, is odd.

The Museum of Liverpool
Liverpool overhead Railway	The Lion

Inside was a lot of open space but also some good collections of material. The section on the docks was nothing like as good as the Docklands Museum in London. I did enjoy the section on the blitz. Brilliantly photographed and very moving. The Liverpool Overhead Railway, closed in about 1956, was completely new to me.

The Lion, the oldest steam locomotive still being driven in the UK, was great fun.

After an hour, my feet were tired so I left sat on a bench for a while and then continued along the waterfront back towards The Three Graces. They are magnificent and the Liver Building is unlike anything else that I have seen.

Two of the Three Graces
The Three Graces & a nasty museum	The Royal Liver Building

There is a larger than life statue of the Fab Four. It is similar in scale to the statue of Bruce Lee in Hong Kong and, just like that one, is a magnet for local photographers.

The Fab Four - plus one
Smart buildings and statues - poor light	A suitable place for lunch
The city was heaving	Lots of student promotions

I left the waterfront and crossed the main road into the city. It being after 13.30, I felt the need for a beer so found a reasonably scruffy local for a pint, a rest and a diary writing session.

The walk back to the hotel took me past some more statues and fine architecture and straight through the main shopping area. This being the start of the university year, the place was heaving. There appeared to be lots of special student promotions under way.

I navigated my way back to the hotel and checked into what turned out to be a huge apartment with three double beds, two bathrooms and a large kitchen. Quite remarkable for £65.

I had a rest and then went out to explore, mainly seeking a restaurant for tonight. Being adjacent to Chinatown that seemed to be an obvious possibility. Most of the area, however, made the back end of Hong Kong look smart. The one point of entertainment was the “Chinese” parking machine.

	Chinatown
Great parking meter	Otherwise scruffy

Much of the area has been rebuilt but there are still some buildings looking very sad and in urgent need of restoration or demolition.

	Wine ...
Great potential but ...	... meatballs ...
I then had a snooze on the sofa before washing and changing for dinner. Five minutes down the road  is a studenty Italian. Very large but, when I arrived, quiet, except for the music. It filled up steadily as the evening progressed. The food was surprisingly good. Meatballs in a very spicy sauce were an excellent starter. The main of spaghetti fruitti di mare also had a nice sauce and lots of seafood. Feeling full, even though I had eaten little all day, I completed the short walk back to the apartment and collapsed in front of the TV.
	... and seafood pasta

I found the large Tesco, which had been a useful navigational aid this morning, and purchased enough supplies to make breakfast in the morning. No point in having a good kitchen and not using it.