September 10
Porthmadog to Aberystwyth
I had a leisurely breakfast, dumped my bag at reception and wandered into town. At 9am it was reasonably quiet so I had little difficulty in finding a post box to post some cards and then an HSBC bank to check the state of my account. I walked to the harbour to take some more photos and to enjoy the view.
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I found more good food shops, gratifying given the presence of the large Tesco that I had spotted yesterday. if only they used non-reflective glass in shop windows It was noticeable how many people were speaking Welsh. In the pub where I had lunch yesterday and in the Tourist Office, all of the inter staff conversations were in Welsh. The Lleyn Peninsula has always been a centre of the Welsh language and culture. |
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I returned to the hotel, collected my bag, walked to the station and was joined by an increasing number of other people.
It arrived on time - a nice new one - and we made good time as we travelled alongside the marshes near to the coast.
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| Porthmadog Station |
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When we reached Harlech, we waited for at least ten minutes in the shadow of the castle for the oncoming train to arrive and clear the single track line. Photos through the window and into the sun didn’t do the castle justice!
The track followed the sea for a bit and we arrived at Barmouth and sat there for a few minutes, presumably for the track ahead to clear.
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We crossed the bridge to Morfa, where I disembarked and set off back to Barmouth on foot. The "breeze" immediately rose to New Zealand levels, meaning that my hat was useless but my fleece came into its own.
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I met lots of other walkers, some cyclists and a few dogs. The walkway is well used and I hope the Council don't try to close it, which they are threatening to do.
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It isn't a wildly exciting walk but the views are great and it was interesting to see the work that has been put into the track. Once over the other side, about two kilometres between the Morfa and Barmouth Stations, I walked through the town.
Right: The end of the bridge |
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It is pretty enough, with some fine old buildings, but lots of holiday makers. Definitely a touch of the "kiss me quick" hats. There was even a small market in a car park, selling mainly bric a brac and junk. I found a pub, had a good pint, although there was no local beer to be had, and a packet of crisps. The menu was the usual large meals so I decided to find a sandwich elsewhere.
Right: A touch of the "kiss me quicks" |
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This proved difficult and I ended up buying a small wrap at the Co-op, which I ate on the station platform. Yet again, the train arrived on time, loads of people got on but there was plenty of room for me. I looked through the windows, took a few photos and tried to stay awake. Most of the other people got off so that by the time we reached Machynlleth there was only a few of us left. Right: Shots from the window |
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The Station had more excellent wrought iron but the road from the station into town was scruffy to say the least. The centre, itself, was quite smart, with a rather fine clock tower. The presence of a lot of cash in the area was signified by the Aga shop.
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I had a coffee and a Welsh cake at a café and then returned to the station. The train arrived and was split in two. The front two carriages went to Aberystwyth and the rear two to Pwllheli. I found the correct section and, half an hour later, was safely delivered to Aberystwyth. |
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The station used to be huge but part of it is now an Indian restaurant and part of it a Wetherspoons pub. The lady at the ticket office gave me some useful information and I set off in search of my hotel.
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The start of the walk was distinctly uninspiring. I soon enter a narrow back street lined with prettily coloured houses, at the end of which was The Castle, an old pub with lovely glass.
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When I walked in Hendrix was playing and the very pretty barmaid showed me to my room. This had recently been refurbished was by far the best one of the trip.
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I dumped my bag and rushed to the harbour, less than five minutes away, to the fish restaurant with the unpronounceable Welsh name - Pysgoty. It is on the edge of the harbour in a converted public toilet. The waiter welcomed me and assured me that the only space available for tomorrow was sitting on a bar stool at the bar. I grabbed the opportunity.
I walked round the sea front, which was beautiful, and into the town centre. The narrow streets and pretty colours were here as well. I found the restaurant I had planned for this evening on the promenade and reserved a table.
I returned to the hotel for a couple of hoppy beers and a long chat with the barmaid. She turned out to be a dog loving foodie so we had plenty in common - except age!
After unpacking, emailing, resting and watching the TV news, I set off for dinner, following the promenade. It was beautiful with the low sun just lighting the waves and the beach. There were still people in the water and also a few fishing.
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I don't know what the obelisk represents. Must do some research. Similarly, there are some huge stone buildings on the waterfront and I must find out what they are. Old College, it transpires.
The less said about the pier, the better. Scruffy and hideous. A blot on an otherwise beautiful water front.
The restaurant was expecting me and the scotch egg that the barmaid had told me to have was good. Technically, it was amazing, with a perfectly runny egg inside a crispy coating. The coating needed a little something to give it oomph but I'm not sure what.
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My cod was cooked to perfection. It sat on a bed of spinach and mashed potato, and flakes fell from it as soon as I looked at it. Perfect!
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I negotiated with the waitress over a small pudding and she offered a brownie, normally one part of the trio of chocolate puddings, to be accompanied by a double espresso. It arrived and was large but not ridiculous, so I ate it, paid the very reasonable bill and walked home via the beach. In the evening light, the town is glorious. I really like it and must return for a longer stay. |
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