September 11
Aberystwyth
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The pub doesn't really do breakfast - probably just as well - so I walked along the harbour towards the station, passing the mix of narrow streets and old houses that seemed so dubious on the way in, but which now seemed the essence of the town. I located a café opposite the station and breakfasted on a roll and a decent coffee. Much healthier than a hotel breakfast. That meant I should have room for a lunch. |
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The guide I collected from the Tourist Office said that the first part of the planned walk would be "moderate" but that the latter two thirds would be "hard". I reached the end of the promenade and the path went straight up, not a good sign. The path was a mixture of gravel and grass, with steep falls on the seaward side. It was hard going but I managed without too much difficulty
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Eventually, I reached the top and then descended gradually into Clarach. This turned out to be a fairly ugly collection of caravan parks but it did have a shop attached, where I was able to buy a bottle of water.
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I continued on my way, starting by going a long way upwards, then going a long way downwards. There was a precipitous drop on my left side and some fearsome looking cliffs. A stiff breeze from inland put my hat at constant risk and the cycle of upwards and downwards went on and on - about six times in all.
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I could see the monument - Borth war memorial - and finally reached it, where I joined a couple with a bouncy spaniel, which pleaded for food but didn't get any. Its parents explained that it was badly neglected and never fed but that it lived in hope.
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From there, it was a reasonably gentle descent into Borth. The 6 mile trip had taken over three hours. I would normally allow under two for such a walk.
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The beach looked pretty but the town was just one long street, lined with reasonably scruffy buildings. I located the bus stop and then the Victoria, the pub I had been advised to visit. It was quite busy and had no Welsh beer, but the Thai style carrot soup, served in a bun, was excellent.
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Having seen some of the other meals being served, I was glad that I had chosen the soup. Everything else was huge.
The bus arrived outside the pub on time. Unfortunately, the driver had to explain that he couldn't accept my train ticket as they only worked on Arriva buses. When I got home I checked the ticket & it is completely lacking in detail on what buses the ticket will work on. Very confusing. I had to pay the huge sum of £2.50. The journey was circuitous but was much quicker than the outward leg.Right: The bus took me to Aberystwyth |
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Once back in Aberystwyth, I walked to the Museum and climbed the numerous stairs to view the galleries. After the morning's hill climbing, this was unwelcome activity. The collection was good. Lots of "stuff" and lots of paintings. Well worth the visit.
With no particular plan, I looked at the waves for a bit and then found a back street café for a coffee and a small cake. I then returned to the hotel for a much needed rest.
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When I emerged, it was dull, cloudy and windy. The forecast rain didn't seem far away. I watched people on the beach, watched the big black birds, whatever they were, and watched the waves. It is a pretty place.
The castle is little more than a pile of rocks, demolished by Parliament to prevent it falling into the King's hands. I walked round it and then returned to the hotel to prepare for dinner.
When I left at 6.45, I used my waterproof for the first time since I left Bourne End. The drizzle was light but it was chilly and nasty. The cloud was low over the sea and my walk to Pysgoty wasn't pleasant. There was at least one fool still in the water.
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Once ensconced at the bar, I chatted to the staff, enjoyed the entertainment when they broke and then reassembled the credit card machine and ate a wonderful meal. Aberystwyth is definitely a place for good food. I walked back in the dry, taking more photos en route. Right Crab and mango salad |
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