February 14
Hokitika to Haast

There was a lot of rain overnight and I think I heard some thunder. Later in the morning I overheard some people discussing the thunder & lightning but I don’t know if they had been in Hokitika. I left town in reasonable weather and stopped to photograph one of the older bridges on the disused railway line to Ross. I remembered at that stage that I had forgotten to ask at the motel if the line into Hokitika was still running.

Hokitika Rail Bridge	Rare birds?

I always stop at Lake Ianthe. There was enough breeze to stop there being reflections on the lake surface but it was still a very pretty spot. There is now a small boat taking visitors onto the lake to see a rare type of Grebe. The only birds in evidence, however, were mallards who seemed to think that I was a possible source of food.

Hari Hari is small and was quiet this morning – it is probably quiet every morning! Last time I passed through, it was so wet that I took a photo through the car window and continued on my way. This time, I stopped for a coffee in the café as it was almost sunny. The coffee was very presentable. As I have often said, the chances of finding a decent coffee in an equivalent place in the UK would be almost non-existent.

Wet day in Whataroa	Whataroa museum & shop

It was raining slightly in Whataroa but I stopped to post some cards and to visit the small carving shop and museum. In there they had some excellent pieces and I would have bought something – except that as I entered,  the lady in charge said that I should shout as she was out the back preparing the children’s lunch. I didn’t really have the nerve to disrupt such important activity and left without buying anything.

	Whilst it was damp today, it had obviously been reasonably dry for the near past. Many of the temporary waterfalls, which characterize the road as they plummet into the ditches at the sides, were dry. The ferns, however, were growing in abundance. The drizzle came and went as I travelled South and it was heavy as I sped through Franz Josef. It was very busy there and all of the motels that I noticed had “no vacancy” signs outside.
Dry waterfall	Cafe Neve, Fox Glacier

There was still no room in the inn (or anywhere else for that matter) in Fox Glacier, but I stopped and had an excellent bowl of tomato, bacon and chill soup. The café is in my good restaurant guide and, on the evidence of the soup, quite deservedly so. Opposite is the old Fox Glacier Hotel, This advertises a bakery and café and, much to my surprise, it sold what appeared to be freshly baked bread. I bought a loaf and continued on my way.

Bruce Bay Bruce Bay is a favourite place and has recently been in the headlines following the opening of a new marae. That was hidden behind a high palisade fence, which was secured with large padlocks, so I was unable to have a proper look. The beach is wonderful with nothing for miles and waves crashing against the shore. I sprayed myself
liberally with insect repellent and wandered along the beach collecting white pebbles.
	Paringa Salmon Farm

Once my pockets were so full that my trousers were in danger of collapsing, I and a myriad of sandflies climbed back into the car. I killed some and ejected a few more. The repellent appeared to have done its work so that I didn’t appear to have been bitten too much.

Next stop was the Paringa salmon farm, where I bought a large fillet for tea. It is no cheaper than at the supermarket but I assume that it is fresh. I often have coffee there but lunch wasn’t too far behind and dinner wasn’t too far ahead, so I forwent the pleasure, drove to Knight’s Point and took the obligatory photo.

I aimed for Ship Creek, instead. This offers two walks, one along the beach and one into the swamp. I took the former option, which leads to a dune lake – ie a lake which has been cut off by sand and which will, eventually, be completely filled in. The information board suggested that this might take 2,000 years. The beach is another area of splendid isolation with interesting rock formations and even more white pebbles to collect. There were also lots of sandflies.

Ship Creek
Ship Creek	Salmon dinner

The final leg of the trip took me over the Haast Bridge – frighteningly long for a single lane structure – and to the Information Centre. This appears to have been cleaned since last year so that it is approaching the beauty of its original construction. I bought a couple of postcards and then drove the 4k to the motel. This is, as NZ motels go, pretty scruffy. Probably the worst that I have seen in 20 years. The alternative, however, would have been a night in the car – so the motel  was infinitely superior! I unloaded my stuff and walked across the road and onto Haast Beach. Yet again, it is incredibly isolated and after a brief wander I returned to the motel for salmon, new potatoes and green beans.