May 6
Queenstown to Dunedin
It was dull and drizzling when I awoke. More Manchester than the Swiss Alps that I had experienced the evening before.
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After some work and some breakfast, I checked out and wandered into town. The drizzle continued, the clouds hung low over the lake and there were few people around.My quest for a birthday card and some wrapping paper was easily satisfied. On the way down the Mall I had spotted some waterproof jackets on offer.Not expecting to find any bargains in Queenstown, I investigated carefully and decided that it was a good deal so bought a pretty red waterproof jacket for $40. |
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The post office sells stamps and also has a cafe. The right red umbrellas provided a dash of colour to an otherwise dull & dreary day.
As I drove out of town, the rain became heavier and everything was damp. The road to Arrowtown revealed lots of colours but the weather didn’t do them justice.
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Arrowtown is noted for its autumn colours. This week is the Autumn Festival but the whole place was soggy. I had a brief wander amongst the old buildings and then returned to the car.
Peregrine Winery is a quarter of an hour away, in the Gibbston Valley. The building is famous as a great work of architectural and environmental merit. It is not, however, a great example of the sign writer's art. I took quite a time to find the path to the front door. At one stage I contemplated wading through the ornamental pond. Once inside, I had a long chat and a good tasting of Rieslings and a Gewurztraminer. I pronounced the second Riesling the be much sweeter than the 19 gms residual sugar that they told me it was. |
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Right at the end of my time there they realised that they had opened the wrong bottle and that I had tasted the dessert wine at 109 gms residual. It was nice to know that my palate hadn't let me down. I bought some pinot noirs, chatted for ages and then walked back to the car through the rain.
The drive from there to Ranfurly was thoroughly unpleasant. Lots of spray and reasonably difficult driving. I stopped at Alexandra for petrol but otherwise drove continuously for a couple of hours before reaching my destination at 1pm.
I had heard the long range weather forecast so had already decided to do my walk on the Wednesday. The hotelier said that there was no problem with a room for me - I had already heard him saying to someone else that the town was very quiet - and that the local taxi/shuttle would be able to help me with transport. I will have to email from Dunedin to book a ride.
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In the bar I ordered fish and chips. It was huge and probably the best fish that I have had in New Zealand. I was able to congratulate the chef and she seemed suitably pleased. If the rest of the food is as good, my two nights there should be fun. Who cares about the walk!
Right: Ranfurly Station & Information Centre |
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Outside again it was dull but the drizzle was vanishing. I visited the Information Centre, had a chat and bought some postcards. The long range forecast there seemed to agree with the radio so next week should be OK.
I left town and wandered gently along, stopping to photograph the Taieri River, a few general views and then, at Tiroiti, the gangers' hut and the bridge. Will I ever manage to walk this section?
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Hyde was scheduled for a coffee but it was only after I had stopped and disembarked that I discovered that it was on winter hours and closed at 2.30, 20 minutes before my arrival.
Middlemarch is half an hour down the road and has a wonderful cafe, the Kissing Gate. I had a coffee and a berry fruit friand. Both were excellent. The tiny cafe had lots of locals present, seemingly relaxing after days at work, school etc etc.
The remainder of the trip to Dunedin was damp, foggy and unpleasant. I made it in one piece and arrived at Paul's almost exactly on schedule.
After dinner, we were driven into town, sank a beer at Scotia, the whisky bar, and then walked to Metro Bar for another beer. Both beers were OK but rather fizzy. To conclude the evening, we walked back up the hill to Scotia, where we were joined by Kris, for wine (in my case) and a few nibbles.
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