Meyricke Serjeantson

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March 23

Singapore

My destination was Pasir Panjang station, involving a walk and two trains, about 40 minutes in all. I decided to have a light breakfast at the hotel, a couple of dim sum and an orange, before setting off.

I walked ten minutes to Clarke Quay station, passing the old Hill Street Police Barracks on the way. My attempt to photograph them with my camera was in vain as the lens was completely misted up -the first time I have had that problem on this trip. I used my phone, instead, so I did have a record of one of the more amazing buildings here. I think they have painted it and repaired a lot of the wood since my last visit.

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Old Hill Street Police Station


Pasir Panjang statue

Pasir Panjang station has its own statue and is of the smart, new, variety. There was a large food court at the rear but the Lonely Planet guide had pointed me to a cafe at the end of the road.

I stopped there, decided that the offerings were too large for what I required, and settled for a coffee, instead.

After yesterday's indulgences, I didn't need a lot of food and it was becoming really hot. This also meant that leaving my bottle of water at the hotel was a mistake and that I would need to buy a bottle at the shop along the road.

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I remember the walk along Pepys Road from several years ago. Nearly fifteen minutes of a steep and winding road, passing some seriously expensive looking properties en route.

I also found a family of birds on the pavement but have no idea what they were.


Posh flats on Pepys Road

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Pepys Road


Looks like a jay but who knows!

The Reflections at Bukit Chandu Museum is in the bungalow built for the manager of the opium packing plant at the foot of the hill. We only made opium illegal at the end of WWII, with the trade not being one of our finer actions of the Imperial era.

In addition to the history of the opium packing industry, the museum commemorates the history of the Malay Regiment, most of whom died protecting this section of the coast from the Japanese invasion in 1942. Lieutenant Adnan Saidi is given particular attention. He died in the defence - probably bayoneted to death by the Japanese long after he was captured - and his body was never officially buried. He is commemorated at the main war cemetery at Kranjii but his name doesn't appear on the war memorial in the museum. The lady at the desk agreed that it wasn't there but didn't say why.

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Reflections at Bukit Chandu Museum


Lieutenant Adnan Saidi

As he is regarded as a war hero in both Singapore and Malaysia, this is strange but I can find no reason for it. A hero he undoubtedly was.

Almost opposite the museum is the Canopy Walk,  which offers a gentle ten minute walk at tree top height and information boards about some of the trees. There are also magnificent views across the city and over the municipal nursery, where the trees and flowers for public planting are raised.

I descended the hill on the steeply winding path and steps, being grateful that I was going down and not up. I did meet a couple of elderly couples - my age - going up. Brave souls!

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The Canopy Walk


A long way downhill

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Views across the city ...


... and the municipal nursery

At the bottom is Hort Park, an educational and research facility for gardeners, plant enthusiasts and the like. This has huge greenhouses, as well as privately rented allotments. It even has a plant shop and garden centre. I sat down on a convenient bench and wrote my diary.

 

Right: They don't only have plants

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Greenhouses and plants

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Plants of all shapes and sizes


Allotments in the city

From the gardens, I made my way to the Alexander Bridge, a spectacular curved structure which crosses the main road. I then walked a few hundred metres down the main road to the Gillman Barracks, home to lots of art galleries (who cares) and The Handlebar, the bikers' bar.

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Alexander Bridge

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Gillman Barracks

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A Tiger by any other name


Unusual beer pumps

I couldn't find it at first but then followed the sound of the heavy rock music. It is a wonderful place with cold (but expensive) beer, excellent music and a very pretty barmaid. Some of the beer pumps and also the coffee machines are fashioned from old cylinder heads. I rested, downed my beer and chatted to the barmaid.


Right: Rock memorabilia as well as bikes

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The bus took me down the main road towards HarbourFront, where there is the Seah Im Food Centre. This was closed for some time while it was rebuilt but it re-opened a few weeks ago.

I ate a bee hoon goreng with iken bilis (dried anchovies) which was good but not exciting. At £3, it didn't need to be! After around seven kilometres of walking, I was tired and resolved to catch a bus somewhere. I would get off when I found somewhere to visit. In the end, I returned to the hotel, this being the easy way out.

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Seah Im Food Centre

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Down the hill to HarbourFront


Bee hoon goreng with iken bilis

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A combination of old and new


Chijmes

I had a brief rest, changed and set off on foot. I walked along Hill Street, past some notable buildings and visited St Joseph's Roman Catholic Church. It is beautiful and in an excellent state of repair.

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A beautiful interior

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St Joseph's


Lovely afternoon weather

By now, I was feeling very tired so, when I reached Bugis station, I caught the train back to City Hall and then walked back to the hotel for a nap.

Just after 18.00, I walked the kilometre or so back to Purvis Street, passing another fine example of the local fire escapes. I have admired these many times over the years.

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More amazing fire escapes


Fried pork - Hainanese style

I dined at the cafe on the corner, which serves Hainanese food in plain and simple surroundings. Unfortunately, they were closing down around me so that I finished in splendid isolation.

Mar 24