Meyricke Serjeantson

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June 9
Aberdeen to Inverness

Breakfast was very good. Smoked haddock and perfectly poached eggs. When I settled up at reception, I discovered that the room & breakfast was £65, half the usual price, because it was a weekend. At that price it really is a bargain.

They ordered a taxi for me and I chatted while I waited for it to arrive. They could not have been friendlier. Neither could the taxi driver. He told me that last year, the hotel had food poisoning in the restaurant. They immediately closed the whole place, cleaned everything, told the world what was happening and filled their order book again the minute they re-opened. A good way to do business.

I arrived at the station at 09.15, acquired some change for the left luggage locker and chatted to the guy while he searched my pack. Yet again, he was very friendly. It must be that sort of place.

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Aberdeen Harbour


Well fenced

The harbour is just over the road from the  station and is reminiscent of Auckland. It is completely encircled by a high fence - grey and not red in this case - and is inaccessible to the public. I contented myself with photos from across the road.

The city really is grey, as was the weather. I wore both sweaters and almost felt the need for my waterproof, which was safely locked away in a locker at the station, as there were touches of drizzle in the air. There is granite everywhere. Both old and new buildings are made of it.

 

Right: Even the new buildings are grey

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Market Street


Union Street

I walked up the hill to Union St, turned right to Castle Square and took photos of the Gordon Highlanders' Memorial, the magnificent Salvation Army Citadel and the Mercat Cross.

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The Salvation Army Citadel


The Gordon Highlanders Memorial

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The Mercat Cross


The Law Courts

Walking back along Union St, I passed the Law Courts, an enormous turreted edifice, and then went down the hill towards the Maritime Museum, which didn't open until 12. It has to be said that at 10 on a Sunday morning, the city was as dead as the proverbial. I even took another look at the harbour.

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The Maritime Museum - closed


Back to the harbour

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The Kirkyard of St Nicholas was enlivened by a lovely display of blue and pink bells (or whatever they were) and was a classic old city churchyard. The church, itself, a magnificent building, was well and truly shrouded by trees.

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The Kirkyard of St Nicholas

I explored a few narrow streets and, feeling the need for a drink to counteract the affects of the smoked haddock, entered "Books and Beans," a trendy Fair Trade café. When the young lady charged me 99p for a double espresso, I expressed surprise. She explained that it was half price before 10.30. As it was 10.45, I was still confused.

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Books and Beans


The Art Gallery

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Closed on a Sunday


William Wallace

The Art Gallery, magnificent though it was, was closed. William Wallace stood head and shoulders above everyone else, and there were more monumental buildings in the form of the theatre, St Mark's church and the library. For an architectural historian, this city is a must. If only it wasn't all grey!

With the shops now opening, I bought a book to read and some postcards to write. Time was starting to drag and my legs were tired after over two hours of walking the city streets.

Golden Square looked promising on the map but, whilst it was approached by a nice cobbled street, contained nice statues and was surrounded by elegant houses, it turned out to be a glorified car park.

 

 

Right: Golden Square

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At 12, the pubs opened so I found a seat and a pint at The Stag and treated myself to a much needed rest. The beer was good and the pub comfortable.

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The Stag - a splendid frontage


On time again

It took a little time to walk down the hill to the station and I reclaimed my back pack from the friendly chap at the left luggage office, stopping for more chat with him and with a young English guy, former pupil of Gordonstoun, who was collecting several bags.

The train was waiting and was filling up rapidly.

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We passed the Airport


The sun appeared

We left on time, stopped at Dyce, near the airport, and trundled through un-exceptional scenery, stopping every 10 or 15 minutes. I did spot the Ardmore distillery but nothing else of excitement. The clouds were low and it was a very dull day.

The sun started to appear about half way along. I spotted Glentauchers distillery but not in time to get the camera ready. The sun continued to shine and, by the time we reached Inverness, the train had lost about half of its passengers. Some cloud had started to appear, however, and a chilly breeze blew occasionally. The train, it should be said, arrived a couple of minutes early.

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Safely arrived in Inverness


The drab fronted Station

The Tourist Information Office was well signposted from the station and the five minute walk took me past the bank, which I must visit in the morning. The Tourist Information man gave me a map and a restaurant guide - largely useless as it didn't say which ones were open on Sundays. He did mention a place which turned out to be two doors from the hotel and which looked good.

The Premier Inn is over £100 a night but it is brand new, on the river bank and has amazing views. They were expecting me and I was soon in a very smart room. Posher than last night but without the style.

Outside, I took photos of the river and of the town centre. I aimed for a pub in the Good Beer Guide, got badly lost, started again and located it to the rear of the castle.

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What a view from my hotel room

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The River Ness

I had a sit down in a comfy chair and drank a very good pint of something Scottish. The pub had lots of back packers sitting in the front garden - it was near the YHA - but a very different clientele inside. It offered something for everyone.

I left the pub, instantly put on my second sweater and crossed the road to the castle.

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The Castle Tavern

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Inverness Castle


Flora Macdonald

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Inverness Castle

Some fool has put a large statue of Flora Macdonald in front of the main elevation but it is a fine sight. I walked as far round as I could go, took lots of photos and then returned to the exit.

Back at the hotel, I had a rest, discovered that I had paid for a day's wi fi by mistake and played on the computer and the TV.

After a shower and a change, I emerged into the evening sun and walked the short distance to the restaurant three doors away, The Kitchen, a very modern looking building.

This was a good decision as the food was good and the service excellent.

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I had several discussions with the waitress, also a foodie, about the black pudding starter - actually black pudding and blue cheese croquettes. We both agreed that it would go better with a fruit sauce than with the garlic aioli which accompanied it.

She persuaded me to have the beetroot, feta, almond, pomegranate and horseradish salad. It was very good, as was the baked cod, which was cooked to perfection. What more can I say.

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The Kitchen


Beetroot, feta, pomegranate and horseradish salad

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Black pudding croquettes


Perfectly baked cod

I examined the New Zealand sauvignon blanc and, as I feared, spotted that it was UK bottled. I was good and didn't pass comment.

The pudding board included cheese with PX sherry - in a BIG glass. What a treat. This is an expensive meal but worth paying for.

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The suspension bridge

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The suspension bridge


The castle and the river

Feeling the need for a token amount of exercise to reduce the damage to my figure, I crossed the river and walked along the opposite bank to the suspension bridge, one of several in the town,  before crossing it, returning to the hotel and collapsing.

June 10