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May 6 Hong Kong
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An ever worse night than yesterday. Just as well I planned a long bus
ride as I doubt that my legs will work at all well.
The coffee shop next door to the hotel, Pacific Coffee Co a local chain
which now also has outlets in China and Singapore, provided jasmine tea,
a sandwich and free internet, so I fed myself and caught up with my emails
at the same time. The short walk to the MTR then indicated that any major
exertion would not be a good idea.
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Cloudy again
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Pacific Coffee Company
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This was put to the test at the other end as I walked along miles of corridors
at Central Station before emerging into the black hole that is the Exchange
Square bus station. It is strange that whilst so much of the public transport
infrastructure is so good, the Island's main bus station is so horrible.
After about a five minute wait I was on board a No 70 bus to Aberdeen.
The trip took about 20 minutes, including three minutes inside the Aberdeen
Tunnel. When we arrived, I can't say that I was particularly excited.
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Exchange Square bus station
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A No 70 on the return journey
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Lots of shops, lots of chaos and lots of people. It's possible that my
jaundiced view that was caused by my feeling very peculiar. Jet lag was
doing very funny things to me.
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The gateway to Aberdeen
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Aberdeen Square
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Tower block with sculpture
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The city centre
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There was an interesting piece of public sculpture under one of the many
tower blocks and a very grand pair of arches at either side of Aberdeen
Square. This open space was full of people sitting or strolling and chatting.
The promenade offered good views over the many boats, to the tower blocks
of Ap Lei Chau, the island across the water. The promenade is reasonably
new and offered lots of spaces for the locals to exercise both themselves
and their birds.
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Discount shopping
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Several people tried to inveigle me into having a harbour tour on their
sampans. At one end was the fish market, there were fishing boats all over
the place and some were drying their fish in the sun.
Jumbo is the famous
floating fish restaurant, with an impressive jetty welcoming potential
visitors. Less welcoming was the amazing list of activities which were
forbidden on the promenade.
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Exercise for birdies
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Views across to
Ap Lei Chau
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Sampans in the harbour
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Jumbo floating restaurant
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More rules than you ever invent
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Fish hung out to dry
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With lunchtime approaching and as I was feeling distinctly shaky, I caught
the bus home, disembarked quite close to the hotel and had a half hour
lie down in the hope that it would re-invigorate me.
Just round the block from the hotel is Jo Jo Mess, an Indian restaurant
on the second floor of a block, approached up a narrow corridor and a small
lift. The interior was smart and the views through the windows (very grubby)
of the general mayhem on the street beneath, excellent. There still lots
of police vehicles parked around the poor folk trapped in the Metropark
Hotel. The buffet was good and full of flavour, without being wildly hot,
and there was a good variety of dishes. One of the best I have had. Next
to me was a very confusing family. He was white, with an Ulster accent.
She looked Indian but very pale. An older couple, presumably her parents,
were obviously Indian and, judging from the number of phone calls they
were receiving, must be locals. They also had two young children.
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Through Jo Jo's grubby windows
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Lockhart Road basketball court
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I had a short rest by the basketball court on the street and then returned
to my room for a siesta. This lasted for about two and a half hours and
I slept for quite a while. When I awoke, I felt a little better and a shower
helped some more. At Reception, I asked for the times of the Airport Express
Shuttle and arranged to keep my room for a couple of hours after normal
check-out time. This was easy. Asking for the location of a post box resulted
in the lady taking my cards and saying that the hotel would post them for
me. Asking for a shop that sold kitchen knives and other utensils and crockery
caused complete confusion. She rang someone and then told me about a supermarket
in the basement of Time Square and another shop at Bowrington Street Market,
both places that I had visited yesterday. Being a good boy, I did as I
was told and hopped onto the MTR.
The supermarket was a wonderful place and sold everything - except kitchen
toys. The food hall was amazing and even had a fair selection of New Zealand
wines, including Hunters, Cloudy Bay, Villa Maria and Lawsons, all at about
twice UK prices and four times those in New Zealand. The shop in the market
also sold food so my question really had been completely misunderstood.
I did find a place selling kitchen stuff but this was typical of what
you could buy in The Warehouse, in New Zealand.
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Bowrington Road Market
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I thought of catching a tram back to the hotel but, in the middle of the
evening rush, they were packed to capacity so I caught a bus, got off at
Pacific Place and went to look at the China Arts and Crafts store that
had been closed when I passed through yesterday. What a mistake!. The soldier
on the door with the big gun gave the game away. This was the branch that
sells jade, gold, antique ceramics, ivory and all manner of seriously expensive
stuff.
I beat a hasty retreat and caught the MTR to Jordan, back on the mainland
and, with the aid of an iced tea from a Chinese fast food restaurant, went
in search of the famed Temple Night Market.
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Jordan
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Temple Market
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Temple Market
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Temple Market
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I only investigated the south end and it was only just starting up at about
6 pm. Peak time is from about 7 until 10. It was great fun, reasonably
busy and full of junk, with the occasional nice thing to make it worthwhile.
I looked reasonably seriously at some leather wallets but decided that
my current one, bought in Bangkok, would last another year. Had I stayed
longer, I'm sure that it would have become much busier.
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Test shots with the new lens
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After returning to Wan Chai on the MTR I decided to enter the Computer
Centre. Lo and Behold, there was a Nikon 1.8 35mm lens. I asked the price
and was told $1950 but $1900 for cash. I had a play, taking lots of photos
inside the shop, with the salesman constantly trying to sell me filters
and other things that I didn't want and giving me information that I knew
was a load of £$%!. When I produced my credit card, he immediately raised
the price by quite a lot and I left.
Returning to the hotel along Lockhart Road, I stopped to photograph The
Dog House, a loud bar with, if Im not mistaken, a Maori bouncer - not
big but looking very hard!
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The Dog House, Lockhart Road
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Jaffe Road bookmaker
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I had a quick change and went to explore Jaffe Road, looking for a good
Chinese restaurant which I visited last year, but it seemed to have vanished.
The bookies nearby was exceedingly busy, even at this late hour. The Chinese
have a reputation for betting on almost anything and this seemed to bear
it out.
I settled for a cheap Chinese restaurant, which is in the Lonely Planet.
I think I was the only white face and tea was served in a plastic mug immediately
I sat down. A good sign.
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369 Restaurant, Jaffe Road
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Jaffe Road
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Delanney's Irish Bar
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I'm sure I didn't get the Szechuan hot and sour soup that I ordered. Mine
seemed to be cabbage and braised pork (almost bacon) and was very good.
Unfortunately, I had ordered cabbage and shrimps as my main course. All
in all, that's more than enough cabbage for one meal. It must have been
healthy, though. The restaurant was busy when I arrived and got steadily
fuller as I ate. Several parties ended up sharing tables, which was about
to happen to me as I finished my meal. It was certainly a popular place
- but then most of the restaurants here seem to be.
On the way home, all the pubs were packed. I looked into the Irish pub
and there was cricket showing on the big screen TV. Feeling like a beer
but not wanting to face too many crowds, I tried the bar at the hotel,
which advertised that it sold dozens of different whiskies and also loads
of European beers.
I walked into the gloom, found the cricket on TV and, whilst ordering my
beer, was able to watch two wickets fall off consecutive balls. I had better
not watch again! I saw some bottles of Kriek in the fridge, ordered one
and was delighted to find that it was from Timmermans, the brewery that
I used to visit when I worked in Brussels. It was excellent but not cheap,
so I drank it slowly, continuing to watch the cricket. I then crawled up
stairs to bed.
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