Meyricke Serjeantson

 

March 1

Darwin

First shock of the day. Postage stamps are a ludicrous price. About £1.50 to send a card to the UK. I should have sent them all from New Zealand. When I asked the nice man at the newsagents for ten of them, he was somewhat taken aback & asked if I knew what I was doing.

There were men trimming the trees opposite the cathedral but as my lens was well and truly condensated, the photos probably won't work. It's just like Singapore here.

After my shock at the newsagents, I had breakfast at Four Birds, a small café on a courtyard. They gave me the best coffee that I have had since I arrived in Australia. It was a young people's place, both the patrons and the staff. One of the latter was about to leave as she and her boyfriend were off to New Zealand. Auckland, of course. If nothing else, she should earn a good living as a barista.

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Four Birds


Coconut water in a cafe

The AA assured me that the Ghan people would turn up at the hotel to collect me without me doing anything. I hope they are right. The Information Office lady then gave me some information on buses.

The ANZ gave me money - eventually. They couldn't accept my card inside but the nice lady then took me to the machine on the outside wall, which accepted my card without a murmur and gave me some money. I set off up Smith Street, stopping at the first café that I passed for a tin of coconut water. Rob, yesterday's coach driver had told us that it was the best form of rehydration so I decided to give it a try. I can't say that I was really taken with the flavour but it was cold, wet and not sugary.

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St Mary’s Star of the Sea

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A lovely space ...


Magnificent stained glass

Just along the road is the St Mary’s Star of the Sea, Roman Catholic Cathedral, which had been pointed out yesterday as we passed it on the coach. The stained glass is excellent and the basic, internal, space is wonderful. It is definitely one of the best modern churches that I have visited. Photography was difficult because of the bright sunlight outside and the relative darkness inside. I'm glad that I explored it.

I continued along Smith Street in ever increasing temperatures or so it seemed, for half an hour until I reached Myilly Point, a group of old Government houses run by the National Trust.

One of the properties is open to the public so I wandered in and was warmly greeted by an elderly lady, who took one look at me and produced a jug of iced water. She seemed impressed that I had walked there from the city. She was another local who said that she couldn't remember it being hotter.

The building was delightful and had survived both the bombing and the cyclone - just. Lots of repairs had been required after both. Upstairs was wonderfully cool as a result of the fans and the louvres. There was lots of fascinating information about the families who had lived there.

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A wonderful setting ...

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... for the historic houses ...


... at Myilly Point

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Burnett House


An effective ventilation system

Another ten minutes down the hill is Cullen Bay, a new marina style development. Lots of very posh blocks of flats with flowers in the borders.

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Posh flats ...


... with pretty flowers

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Cullen Bay - not an exciting approach


But the harbour was pretty enough

At the bottom was a row of concrete shops and cafes, most of which seemed to be closed. I looked at the sea, looked at the marina and decided that, as it was after 12, I should have a beer.

About the only place that was open was a small bar with an interesting decoration of old doors. They even sold "One Mile" the local craft beer, so I treated myself to a schooner. Not exciting but better than what I had last night. As I was soaked by now, some re-hydration was essential.

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An amazing bar front

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An angry local?

 


One Mile beer with a view

The seven minute ride in the air conditioned bus was much easier than the hour's walk in the baking sun had been. I walked back through the mall to a small Vietnamese restaurant for cold spring rolls and iced tea. Very suitable for the conditions and light enough to permit an ice cream this afternoon.

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Christ Church Cathedral

I walked back to the hotel, visiting the Anglican Cathedral en route. Like the Roman Catholic one, it is new. Only the front gate and the porch survived Cyclone Tracy. It is a beautiful space. Not large but light, airy and peaceful.

The hotel assured me that the Ghan bus would call to collect me so I went outside again. My plan was to visit the Indo-Pacific Marine Exhibition Centre, about five minutes walk away. When I arrived, it was closed. No idea why.

 


Right: The Marine Centre was closed

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With my plans in tatters, I walked back, past the impressive rock cliff, and did what any sane man would have done - popped into the pub and sank a cold one. I then climbed the stairs to my room and exchanged my sodden shirt for a dry one.

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The red cliffs


The tanks were closed but the pipes weren't

A couple of minutes away from the hotel are the WWII oil tunnels. These were drilled into the cliff to provide safe storage but, ultimately, were never used. This being the wet season, not that there has been too much wet recently, they were closed. Perhaps that was why the Marine Exhibition Centre was closed. I'm not doing well on the tourism front.

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The end of the wharf

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The Parliament Building


The lift up the cliff

I walked to the end of the road, took photos of the sea end of the Parliament Building on the cliff above and had the ice cream that I had promised myself. It was expensive - $5 for a single cone - but was very good.

It was a short distance back to the hotel - at least 300 metres - by which time I was soaked again. I changed into my togs and located the hotel pool, which was on the ground floor. It was like a bath but I soaked myself and even swam a few widths. It is the first time that I have swum since having my new hip and I managed a breast stroke leg action with no problems at all.

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The Administrator's Office - Darwin's first court house

Feeling fresh but tired after my unaccustomed exercise I returned to my room, had a shower and tried to organise my belongings for the next section of my trip.

Just before 8 pm, I set off for dinner, taking the opportunity to walk up Cavanagh Street for the first time. It had a couple of interesting buildings but nothing very exciting.

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Greek salad

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Cavanagh Street


Calamari

Manoli's restaurant is an old style Greek restaurant, selling old style Greek food. I ate far too much feta and far too much of everything else, accompanied by a couple of glasses of very dry Australian white. I waddled back to the hotel.

 

Mar 2