February 9
Hong Kong
Some sleep but better than usual at this stage of a trip. Lovely weather
outside but there is interesting news on the BBC that there is a big riot
in Mong Kok, that shots have been fired and that the station has been closed.
As I was intending to go there, I had better change plans.
Breakfast was in the hotel café, as opposed to the posh restaurant. With
a 20% discount voucher to use, I had little choice. The congee was interesting,
the dim sum average and the fruit healthy.
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Interesting congee
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Kowloon Ventilation Building - fascinating
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Still lacking ideas, I walked to the Star Ferry. While I was waiting there,
the TV news was on, showing the rioting, all along the main streets. On
the way over, I took the opportunity to photograph the building which has
always fascinated me, and which I now know to be the Kowloon Ventilation
Building, part of the rail tunnel system.
With the weather being lovely, I decided to visit Discovery Bay. I could
do some walks along the beach and, as a largely expat village, the cafes
and bars might to be open.
The ferry was arriving as I approached the terminal and I was soon aboard
and heading on the 25 minute voyage to Discovery Bay. It was smooth, there
weren't many other boats around and it was a relaxing way to start the
morning. I took lots of photos but the windows, which were both tinted
and grubby, didnt help matters.
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Kowloon from the Island
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The harbour was calm and empty
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Discovery Bay from the ferry
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I had just started to walk along the front when I heard drumming. Increasing
my pace, I arrived at the Village Club just in time to see the start of
a Lion Dance.
Two of them, staffed by four very fit young men, did all manner of movements
involving great agility. I'm sure they had great significance but I don't
know what.
There was a big crowd but I gradually worked my way to the front. This
didn't really matter when the front end of one of the lions climbed a pole
and showed both courage and agility while he was up there.
He was given some lettuce or similar which he "chewed" and then spat out
over the crowd. Party poppers were let off, showering sparkly bits like
confetti. One of the functionaries got covered and had to have his bald
head brushed. All very impressive. I noticed last night that the Chinese
are very tactile. When they reached out to touch the dragons (and lions)
or to high five the performers, they screwed up lots of my photos.
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I fought my way through the crowds
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Two local lions
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The young men inside the costumes
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Happy New Year - from up a pole
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He was led round to be stroked
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Today, it was the same. Everyone had to touch the lions and they toured
round the arena giving everyone a chance. Lots of people fed little red
cards into their mouths. Good luck charms I suppose.
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Discovery Bay Plaza
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A lovely place for a coffee
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When the performance was over, I walked into the Plaza, an open square,
actually a round, in the village centre and then arrived at the Pacific
Coffee Co for a black tea. Their terrace is one of the nicer places in
which to have elevenses, with the bay providing a beautiful backdrop. Unusually
for Hong Kong, it was warmer in the air conditioned building than outside,
where the temperature was just about perfect.
I walked round the beach but the path came to a halt. It was very pretty
but just like a European beach resort transplanted into Asia.
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A European beach ...
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... in the East
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The path ended at the Yacht club
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Lots of dogs
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I met lots of dogs of varying sizes. One little chap demanded a very long
cuddle and I was so preoccupied with this that I didn't get round to taking
his photo.
Between the coffee shop and the pier was a tunnel of flowers - Le Jardin
dAmour I think. Spectacular to look at.
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Le Jardin
dAmour
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Retracing my steps, I returned to the village centre and out the other
side. Another short walk along the harbour was interrupted by some locked
gates. The path had followed underneath some huge tower blocks. The view
from the upper floors must have been breathtaking. Dogs, however, were
not welcomed on the grass.
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The other end of the path
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Doggies not welcome
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The flats must have amazing views
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Having completed about two and a half kilometres, I felt that lunch was
almost justified. I did a lap of the "square" at first floor level and
ended up in a Thai restaurant. This provided a fish curry and a beer. Pleasant
enough but not brilliant.
I thought about returning by bus but that would have meant changing at
Tung Chung and finding another bus or the train. The ferry was the best
option so I took it.
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Back across the sea
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Discovery Bay Plaza
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We sailed across the sea without incident, as did the Star Ferry when I
reached Central. I arrived back at the hotel for a rest.
Two hours later I emerged to find that it was very busy outside. I decided
to take the train rather than the ferry and that was very busy as well.
At Wan Chai things quietened down. The restaurant I had thought of dining
at was closed so I settled down for a tea and a sandwich.
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I followed the crowds to the side of the Convention Centre, a route I know
well but which has been complicated by the land reclamation work.
I found a barrier overlooking the harbour at about 7 pm and waited. At
about 7.15, there were still lots of spaces around me.
At 7.30 the area filled up rapidly. A policeman kept the path clear and
encouraged many people to move round the corner for a better view. By 8.00
the place was heaving but I had an excellent view when the show kicked
off on time.
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The CBD from Wan Chai
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Evening in the CBD
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Evening lights on the Harbour
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There were two large boats on the harbour, one right in front of me and
one hidden round the corner behind some trees. The fireworks came think
and fast so that sky soon filled with smoke.
The noise reverberated around the numerous tower blocks and The Peak, making
it seem even louder that it actually was. It was a huge and spectacular
show in an ideal location and in perfect weather.
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The display began ...
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... smoke filled the air ...
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The fireworks ...
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... went ...
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... on ...
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... and on
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The crowd dispersed amazingly quickly. There were lots of police about
but they didn't have to do anything.
Within 30 minutes, I was inside the Devil's Advocate, drinking Carlsberg
and eating fish fingers. I wouldn't touch either in the UK but things are
different out here. The beer is better in the Kowloon Taphouse but it is
on the other side of the harbour and almost twice the price. It seemed
wise to delay my return on the train for a while to let the crowds clear.
The fish fingers, gujons really, were large and plentiful. There was even
a touch of salad to make me feel virtuous.
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Fish fingers ...
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... and beer
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The ride home was busy but not excessively so, and I was home in no time
at all.
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