Meyricke Serjeantson

 

February 9

Hong Kong

Some sleep but better than usual at this stage of a trip. Lovely weather outside but there is interesting news on the BBC that there is a big riot in Mong Kok, that shots have been fired and that the station has been closed. As I was intending to go there, I had better change plans.

Breakfast was in the hotel café, as opposed to the posh restaurant. With a 20% discount voucher to use, I had little choice. The congee was interesting, the dim sum average and the fruit healthy.

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Interesting congee


Kowloon Ventilation Building - fascinating

Still lacking ideas, I walked to the Star Ferry. While I was waiting there, the TV news was on, showing the rioting, all along the main streets. On the way over, I took the opportunity to photograph the building which has always fascinated me, and which I now know to be the Kowloon Ventilation Building, part of the rail tunnel system.

With the weather being lovely, I decided to visit Discovery Bay. I could do some walks along the beach and, as a largely expat village, the cafes and bars might to be open.

The ferry was arriving as I approached the terminal and I was soon aboard and heading on the 25 minute voyage to Discovery Bay. It was smooth, there weren't many other boats around and it was a relaxing way to start the morning. I took lots of photos but the windows, which were both tinted and grubby, didn’t help matters.

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Kowloon from the Island


The harbour was calm and empty

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Discovery Bay from the ferry

I had just started to walk along the front when I heard drumming. Increasing my pace, I arrived at the Village Club just in time to see the start of a Lion Dance.

Two of them, staffed by four very fit young men, did all manner of movements involving great agility. I'm sure they had great significance but I don't know what.

There was a big crowd but I gradually worked my way to the front. This didn't really matter when the front end of one of the lions climbed a pole and showed both courage and agility while he was up there.

He was given some lettuce or similar which he "chewed" and then spat out over the crowd. Party poppers were let off, showering sparkly bits like confetti. One of the functionaries got covered and had to have his bald head brushed. All very impressive. I noticed last night that the Chinese are very tactile. When they reached out to touch the dragons (and lions) or to high five the performers, they screwed up lots of my photos.

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I fought my way through the crowds

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Two local lions


The young men inside the costumes

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Happy New Year - from up a pole


He was led round to be stroked

Today, it was the same. Everyone had to touch the lions and they toured round the arena giving everyone a chance. Lots of people fed little red cards into their mouths. Good luck charms I suppose.

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Discovery Bay Plaza

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A lovely place for a coffee

When the performance was over, I walked into the Plaza, an open square, actually a round, in the village centre and then arrived at the Pacific Coffee Co for a black tea. Their terrace is one of the nicer places in which to have elevenses, with the bay providing a beautiful backdrop. Unusually for Hong Kong, it was warmer in the air conditioned building than outside, where the temperature was just about perfect.

I walked round the beach but the path came to a halt. It was very pretty but  just like a European beach resort transplanted into Asia.

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A European beach ...


... in the East

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The path ended at the Yacht club


Lots of dogs

I met lots of dogs of varying sizes. One little chap demanded a very long cuddle and I was so preoccupied with this that I didn't get round to taking his photo.

Between the coffee shop and the pier was a tunnel of flowers - Le Jardin d’Amour I think. Spectacular to look at.

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Le Jardin d’Amour

Retracing my steps, I returned to the village centre and out the other side. Another short walk along the harbour was interrupted by some locked gates. The path had followed underneath some huge tower blocks. The view from the upper floors must have been breathtaking. Dogs, however, were not welcomed on the grass.

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The other end of the path

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Doggies not welcome


The flats must have amazing views

Having completed about two and a half kilometres, I felt that lunch was almost justified. I did a lap of the "square" at first floor level and ended up in a Thai restaurant. This provided a fish curry and a beer. Pleasant enough but not brilliant.

I thought about returning by bus but that would have meant changing at Tung Chung and finding another bus or the train. The ferry was the best option so I took it.

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Back across the sea


Discovery Bay Plaza

We sailed across the sea without incident, as did the Star Ferry when I reached Central. I arrived back at the hotel for a rest.

Two hours later I emerged to find that it was very busy outside. I decided to take the train rather than the ferry and that was very busy as well. At Wan Chai things quietened down. The restaurant I had thought of dining at was closed so I settled down for a tea and a sandwich.

I followed the crowds to the side of the Convention Centre, a route I know well but which has been complicated by the land reclamation work.

I found a barrier overlooking the harbour at about 7 pm and waited. At about 7.15, there were still lots of spaces around me.

At 7.30  the area filled up rapidly. A policeman kept the path clear and encouraged many people to move round the corner for a better view. By 8.00 the place was heaving but I had an excellent view when the show kicked off on time.

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The CBD from Wan Chai


Evening in the CBD

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Evening lights on the Harbour

There were two large boats on the harbour, one right in front of me and one hidden round the corner behind some trees. The fireworks came think and fast so that sky soon filled with smoke.

The noise reverberated around the numerous tower blocks and The Peak, making it seem even louder that it actually was. It was a huge and spectacular show in an ideal location and in perfect weather.

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The display began ...


... smoke filled the air ...

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The fireworks ...


... went ...

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... on ...


... and on

The crowd dispersed amazingly quickly. There were lots of police about but they didn't have to do anything.

Within 30 minutes, I was inside the Devil's Advocate, drinking Carlsberg and eating fish fingers. I wouldn't touch either in the UK but things are different out here. The beer is better in the Kowloon Taphouse but it is on the other side of the harbour and almost twice the price. It seemed wise to delay my return on the train for a while to let the crowds clear.

The fish fingers, gujons really, were large and plentiful. There was even a touch of salad to make me feel virtuous.

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Fish fingers ...


... and beer

The ride home was busy but not excessively so, and I was home in no time at all.