April 4
Following yesterday’s over indulgence, I ignored both the hotel and the posh dim sum place and tried to find breakfast on the run. This is difficult here as most places don’t open until about 10. I reached Mong Kok and found but ignored a McCafe. There was a packed restaurant, an underground place offering Hong Kong breakfasts which featured a dubious mix of fried eggs, sausages, spam, noodles etc etc. I finally settled on a bakery where the local population were eating sausages on the street. If it’s good enough for them, it’s good enough for me.
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My first experience of the surface railway, which I joined at Kowloon Tong, was that it was big. I didn’t count the number of carriages but the platform went on for ever.
The train was quite full and the further out of the city we went, the fuller it became. Goodness knows where they were all going – the Chinese Border, perhaps.
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I alighted at Tai Wo Station, which had a huge concourse, and found my way into the equally huge shopping mall which contained it. From there, I followed the signs, ending up at the Chinese bridge over the river.
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Bridge No 2
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I was slightly confused but then realised that Lonely planet was unhelpful in not pointing out that there were three such bridges, almost identical.
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The area was run down by city standards but friendly enough and I felt perfectly comfortable walking the half mile or so to the Hong Kong Railway Museum, which was small, housed in a beautiful old building and full of parents with children.
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It contained everything that you would expect to find; an old station building complete with ticket office; engines; carriages; model trains; etc etc.
It was by the side of the main rail track and the vibration caused by passing trains was scarily reminiscent of life in New Zealand. I detoured through the main shopping street, passing the rear of the temple but failing to find the front of it, and entered the market.
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As ever in such a place, there were lots of things that I recognised, lots that I didn’t recognise and a few things that I didn’t want to recognise. The row of fish drying on the side of the road was magnificent.
Back in the mall, I tried to find some lunch but all of the restaurants were packed. I caught the train, still very full, back into the city. On the outskirts, I alighted at the Festival Walk Mall in Kowloon Tong. It is one of the largest in Hong Kong and was very confusing.
There were numerous changes of level and lots of escalators, most of which didn’t seem to meet in any co-ordinated fashion.
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With the aid of the Lonely Planet, I found the Kings Noodle Bar, where I had another bowl of Singapore Noodles. Not as spicy as yesterday’s but full of interesting stuff and cheaper.
It was only when I emerged from the restaurant that I realised that it was one level above a skating rink. It was busy with beginners of all shapes and sizes going round and round in circles. I sat and watched while I digested my noodles. There was one tiny child who looked as if she had been born on skates. Quite amazing.
I returned to the hotel, changed and caught the Wan Chai ferry and then a bus to Causeway Bay. I felt obliged to give a donation to some people who were blocking the pavement in one of the busiest parts of town with several large dogs, including an enormous St Bernard. Whether it was the Dog Protection League or the Dog Meat Appreciation Society, I never discovered. The crowd was so thick that photography was difficult.
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I walked a long way looking for ties but completely failed to find more than a couple and nothing to match my requirements. When I arrived at the tailor’s for a last fitting, the chap looked confused and grabbed his phone. After a long conversation, he asked if I could return in half an hour. As the Devil’s Advocate was just round the corner, I readily agreed as I had always planned to have a beer there at some stage in the process.
When I returned to the shop, a young man, there with his parents, was collecting a suit. He was young, slim and the suit fitted him perfectly. My jackets were hanging up and looked good – but would they fit me? When my turn came, all seemed to fit, we discussed ties and they gave me one, and I walked out minus a huge amount of cash but with two suits, a posh shirt and a tie all in a bag. I carried them back to the hotel with great care and hung them in the wardrobe.
I made a quick turnaround, watched the street performers outside the Ferry terminal and crossed the harbour. Things went pear shaped after that as a short walk revealed that not only the restaurant that I was planning to visit but also the whole building that used to contain it had been demolished.
I tried a few others in the vicinity but either I didn’t fancy them or they were packed to capacity.
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Deciding that a return to home territory would be a good idea, I returned to the ferry, tried to take photos of the pretty lights from the bouncing ferry and disembarked.
I walked straight to Ashley Rd and into Hing Fat, which had lots of room. I have often eaten here before and it is OK without being either top quality or very cheap. I ate beef with vegetables and Sichuan prawns, washed down with lots of Tsing Tao, whilst watching a TV programme on dieting, which seemed to be sponsored by Fonterra. You can’t avoid them!
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I lurched home, wrote my diary and collapsed into bed.