April 2
A problematic start. I was surprised yesterday when it was suggested at the hotel that my booking included the buffet breakfast in the restaurant. Having had a reasonable Asian buffet, I discovered that I definitely hadn’t paid for B&B. Breakfast in future will be coffee, sandwiches & free internet.
I took the train in the direction of the Jade Market and discovered that I had returned the old battery to my camera and left the fully charged one back at the hotel. I should have a few shots left so can return to the hotel after a little shopping to rectify my error.
Every few blocks in Hong Kong there is a “sitting out” area, a green oasis amongst the high rise buildings, normally the realm of aging Chinese but also useful for aging POMS seeking somewhere to write their diaries. The Portland Street one served exactly such a purpose.Just round the corner was the row of cooking equipment shops that I had visited a couple of days before. I wandered round them again, looked at all manner of things that I might have liked but decided that I didn’t actually need any of them. One of the large cooking pots would have been wonderful but might not have fitted in my suitcase. |
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The Jade Market is an unprepossessing sort of place but I soon found what I wanted at a price that the lady was prepared to accept, which probably means that it was far too much! Whatever the price, I acquired a small (tiny) green hippo which may or may not be jade.
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Back at the hotel, I managed to find my other battery, which claimed to be half full. A good photographer doesn’t get into this mess!
I set out again, walked miles underground from the Central to Hong Kong stations and finally located Tim Ho Wan. Even at 11.20 am, there was a large queue outside. I decided that this would get worse as lunchtime neared.
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I approached a lady who gave me an English order form and a number. I ticked a few boxes – shrimp dumplings, stuffed peppers and steamed vegetables – and awaited my summons. This came after about ten minutes and I took a seat at a long table with 14 others. Luckily, the guy opposite took photos of everything so I didn’t worry about following suit.
The green vegetables turned out to be Chinese cabbage, not exciting but crisp and probably nutritious. The stuffed peppers were lovely and the shrimp dumplings plump.
Overall, it was probably slightly better than yesterday’s dim sum and a bit cheaper. I will try to come for breakfast later in the week.
From there, I walked through the markets at Central, failed to buy anything but did find a map at the station which guided me towards some dinner venues for the evening.
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At Wan Chai I found another free wi fi system and took the opportunity to inform Wellington about Tim Ho Wan and London about the hippo. The IT Mall provided a cable to replace the one that went into the container by mistake and the Southorn Playground provided a bench on which to write and a football game to watch. Right: Southorn Playground |
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Just around the corner is the Devil’s Advocate, my favourite pub in Hong Kong. It is cool and dark but with a window open to the road. It also sells cold beer and has rugby on the TV.
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The fitting at the tailor’s was entertaining as both the guy I had met on my first visit and his boss were concerned that my shoulders weren’t level. I was quite unable to explain the issue of worn out hips and that when I had a replacement I might level up again.
The blue jacket only had one arm – I hope they will fit another – and it seemed tight. They took lots of photos, made a few chalk marks on the fabric and summoned me back for 4 pm on Wednesday. I did a little more window shopping, bought a credit card wallet and then returned home for a rest. When I started to organise my belongings I couldn’t find my UK mobile phone. That is no great concern as it cost little and not even I know the number but I don’t like losing things.
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Leaving the hotel at 6, I was soon in Central, wandered up some of the very steep streets and finally found Ser Wong Fun.Just as last night, I wouldn’t have dared enter without encouragement, particularly as the speciality was snake. It was small, I was the only gweilo in sight and only tea seemed to be on the drinks menu. I ignored the snake dishes and settled for one beef and one squid. I wasn’t sure what I would get but time would tell. |
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The beef with vegetables was very good but not too different from what you would get in a good Chinese restaurant in the UK or New Zealand. The shredded squids with dried shrimp, leeks, chives and bean sprouts was a wonderful mix of tastes and textures.
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The restaurant filled rapidly, one other gweilo couple arrived, and I had to share my small table with an elderly Chinese couple. Any restaurant here that is at all good seems to be packed.
As soon as I had finished, I paid, headed out into the crowds and returned to the hotel. There, I had a beer in the cafe and used the free wi fi until bed time.