November 6
Hobart to Rutherglen
As ever when an early start is scheduled, I didn't sleep well. This was
helped along by what sounded like a recycling truck stopping outside the
hotel at about 05.30 to crush a load of bottles. At 06.00 the hotel's clock
radio alarm went off. I hit it on top & it shut down but, as it obviously
had a snooze function, it sounded again five minutes later.
Fully awake by now, I deactivated all of my own alarms and prepared to
face the day. At 07.30 I crossed the road and, a few minutes later, the
shuttle appeared. The driver told me that the hotel had screwed up as usual
and given me a receipt and not a bus ticket but he would let me off and
I should climb on regardless. We then circled the city centre a few times,
collecting people from various hotels, before crossing the bridge and heading
for the airport.
We arrived there at 08.20 and the long line of Virgin check-in desks was
gloriously deserted. Coordinating with the airport transport is obviously
not at the top of their list of priorities. After half an hour, they sprang
into life and check-in was completed quickly and efficiently. I was through
security by 09.00. A weak coffee and a tired toasted sandwich followed.
The catering here leaves a lot to be desired. I then sat and waited.
We took off a couple of minutes late and arrived a couple of minutes early.
Nothing to complain about there. My bag arrived quickly and I found my
way across the road to the Hertz office at the base of a multi storey car
park. The lady there was reasonably, not completely, helpful but I found
my bright yellow car and left the car park without incident. Both of the
ladies at Hertz said it would be easy - just take the 2nd exit. I did and
it was. Within ten minutes I was finding my way along the Hume Freeway,
where road works slowed everything a little.
With photography not being possible whilst driving at 110 kph, I will have
to rely on my descriptive skills. The road was a low grade dual carriageway
by UK standards, but not too busy so driving was easy. The weather was
hot, dull and cloudy and there was a hint of rain in the air. The scenery
was rural, green but not intensively farmed. There were large areas of
rough common and a few trees. Other than the odd farm, there was no sign
of development until, after about 90 k, I pulled off the Freeway at Seymour.
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Seymour town centre?
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Strange roadside ornament
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Finding the town centre was a problem - there didn't seem to be one. I'm
not sure why there was a tank parked by the side of the road but the information
centre looked pretty and the pub looked as if it might do a lunch.
It was rough and ready but friendly and I had a couple of cold light beers
and a burger. The meal was huge and very good, including an excellent Greek
salad. I got a lot of entertainment from the byplay between the girl behind
the bar and the three regulars sitting alongside it. It was fun, mainly
good natured and mostly unrepeatable.
Right: The Coach & Horses, Seymour
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The rest of the journey was similar to the first part. Showers appeared
and, on one stretch of the highway, the puddles suggested that I had missed
a downpour. I stopped at Violet Town for a cold drink & an ice cream. It
was pleasant enough but not memorable.
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Violet Town - not exciting
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Gloomy over Rutherglen
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At about 4.15 I entered Rutherglen after a drive of about 300k, and parked
at the Information Centre. There, I discovered that there wasn't a tour
of the vineyards, unless I wanted to hire a stretch limo, so I would have
to drive myself and be abstemious. I enquired about walking from the Motor
Inn into town and was told that it was a long way. When I arrived there,
I found a road sign pointing back to the Information Centre - 1k! I think
I should be able to manage that.
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Rutherglen Motor Inn
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The outskirts of the town
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I checked in, dumped my belongings and wandered out of town for about
ten minutes to see what there was. I found nothing very much other than
a house with about half a dozen assorted doggies - Labradors, retrievers,
mutts of indeterminate parentage etc - all of which egged each other on
to attack the passer by. The fence prevented them from doing this but it
was an entertaining performance. I'm sure that they would all have enjoyed
having their tummy's tickled.
It was repeated when I retraced my steps past the motel and on to the Tuileries,
a posh restaurant, where I reserved a table for the following night. I
collapsed in one of the pubs for a cold beer, perused the menu and decided
to return there for dinner.
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Rutherglen Estate & The Tuileries
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Rutherglen - a quiet place
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A brisk walk home in the heat left me a sweaty mess. I showered, thought
of changing into trousers but decided to retain the shorts. Some laundry
might be required in the morning.
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As I walked out of the motel, the rain started. I donned my waterproof
and the rain stopped. I couldn't be bothered to remove it again.
I was soon at the Poachers Paradise Hotel, a walk of about ten minutes,
and in the cavernous restaurant. They offered a good selection of local
wines by the glass.
I started with a Stanton and Killeen Frontignac, a grape I have only previously
tried in the Barossa. It was aromatic and with a touch of sweetness. It
was interesting but I don't think I would buy it. Next was a Campbells
Verdelho. Nice enough but not Hunter Valley standard.
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Rutherglen
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Salt and pepper squid ...
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... and a good steak
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The salt and pepper squid arrived suspiciously quickly - but it was excellent.
I didn't come 300k inland to eat seafood but this was cooked to perfection.
While I was ordering a Campbells Durif/Shiraz, my steak was arriving. It
wasn't as good a piece of meat as I had enjoyed the previous night but
it, too, was cooked to perfection. The wine was rich and smooth. Remarkably
good for AU$8 a glass.
By 8.15, the pub was almost empty. I probably outstayed my welcome by ordering
a glass each of the Campbells and Stanton and Killeen liqueur muscat. I
sat in the bar and compared them while the staff locked up around me.
It was a good night with a lot of good food and good drink at reasonable
(by Australian standards) prices. I walked slowly home.
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